The train journey to St. Ives is sublime. Especially rolling down the Exe estuary around the coast to Teignmouth, where the track is yards from the sea, and up the estuary to Newton Abbot. We only spent three nights with the Crockers who were in residence at 1, The Terrace for the summer, but we had an exquisite taste of Cornwall. Literally, as we ate out all the time between talking and walking.
The first night we ate in the new restaurant across from the Tate: St. Ives gallery, overlooking Porthmeor beach. Another Symons establishment. In fact the Symons did well out of us as we also went to their Porthgwidden and Porthminster cafes. All the three main beaches of the town.
Sunset on Porthmeor Beach.
But the best place was The Gurnards Head pub.We caught the 508 bus from the Malakoff for the 30 minute jaunt through narrow country lanes, past Zennor, to the bus stop right outside the pub door. From here we walked for 2 or so miles over the fields to Gurnards Head and back to the pub for lunch where I had the best moules marinere I can ever remember.
The walk to Gurnards Head.